The week before Christmas 2001 the family decided we would take a week's holiday in the South Hams of Devon. This peninusular between Plymouth to the west and Exeter to the east is famed for its mild climate and the "English Riviera" resorts of Torquay and Paignton on its east facing shores. Among birdwatchers it is best known for its Cirl Buntings, notably at the southernmost tip, Prawle Point.

However we turned our back on the bright lights and based ourselves on the west-facing coast towards the southern end of Bigbury Bay at Thurlestone Rock. The clifftop accomodation overlooked the bay and we had excellent views of the sea, Burgh Island, South Milton Sands and the valley heading inland. With views like this and a swimming pool and games room at our disposal there was little need to travel around. The weather was kind to us and we saw a total of 60 species during the week, almost all seen from the comfort of the house.

On our first full day a female Black Redstart often perched outside our window although it proved to be more ellusive later in the week. We also flushed a Snipe from the clifftop garden while exploring.

Over the first couple of days we became familiar with the regular birds that would be with us most of the week: gulls, Oystercatcher, Common Buzzard, Wigeon, Shoveler, Teal, Mallard, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit and a large flock of Canada Geese with the seemingly obligatory Barnacle Goose in attendance. Turnstone were less frequent on the rocks than expected but I still think Purple Sandpiper are quite likely here. Up to two Little Egrets also graced the beach most of the time.

On the second day I was surprised to find 2 White-fronted Geese (an adult and a juvenile). These wary birds were seen most of the week alway keeping apart from the Canada flock. My suspicions that these were wild birds were confirmed on my return by the Devon county recorder who said they had been reported as the European race. A couple of days later two Bean Geese (probably the Tundra form "rossicus") joined the White-fronts. These stayed just one day and are scarce in Devon. A small party was later reported from Weymouth further east along the south coast.

Other highlights of the second day were a large party of Gannets and quite a few Kittiwakes forced into the bay by the strong northeasterly wind and a Chiffchaff feeding in an evergreen hedge. More Gannets appeared during squally northwesterlies later in the week.

Our first Peregrine showed midweek haring after 5 Teal directly over the house. Another cruised past our bedroom window the day before we left. I also located a Slavonian Grebe on the sea midweek and a few Gadwall and a Pochard joined the wildfowl.

A short walk along the coastal path (which goes through the garden) takes you to Hope Cove. There are 2 pubs and a village shop and post office here. Rock Pipit, Grey and Pied Wagtail were common around the beaches here and an adult Yellow-legged Gull stood out from the gulls gathered on the shore on one day. Walking a little further to the south takes you to Bolt Tail, which provides a good view out to sea. We saw Raven and two Grey Seals here.

I am reluctant to recommend individual places to stay but I feel this place has a great deal to offer the family birdwatcher. The pools by the beach are reminicent of Kelling Quaggs and provide some excellent wader habitat and there is good cover for passerine migrants. The birdwatching should be sensational in Spring. The price (£220) was very reasonable even allowing for the fact is was out of season. The owners were very friendly and helpful and the accomodation immaculate. The small swimming pool was excellent and there was a pool table and huge selection of books in the games room. The owners keep a list of the birds seen on the site.

John and Trish Gange
Thurlestone Rock
Nr. Kingsbridge
South Devon
TQ7 3JY
Tel / Fax: +44 (0)1548 561300
Website: www.webmachine.co.uk/seamark
E-mail: seamark@talk21.com (this is not working at the time of writing)

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